The Perilous Allure of Mount Everest: Why Are Lives Lost?
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Climbing Everest: A Brief History
On May 29, 1953, at 11:30 a.m. local time, Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Nepali Sherpa Tenzing Norgay achieved the unprecedented feat of reaching the summit of Mount Everest, marking a significant milestone in the history of mountaineering. This majestic peak, part of the Himalayan range, has been shaped over the last two million years due to the collision of the Indian-Australian and Eurasian tectonic plates. Today, Everest stands at an elevation of 29,000 feet above sea level, and it continues to grow approximately a quarter-inch each year. For centuries, it has been a familiar sight for the Central Asians residing nearby. However, it wasn't until the 1850s, during the so-called "golden age of alpinism," that Everest gained prominence among Western adventurers after an Indian mathematician, employed by the British colonial government, identified it as the highest mountain on Earth. It would take another century of explorations before Hillary would finally conquer it.
In the six decades following Hillary's historic ascent, the pace of climbing has accelerated dramatically. Over 4,800 climbers have summited Everest, with around 300 fatalities recorded. Alarmingly, eleven of these deaths occurred within just the past two weeks.
This recent climbing season has ignited a mix of political, economic, and personal tensions. Nepal, one of the world’s most impoverished nations, has issued a record number of climbing permits this year. Expert mountaineers note that many of these permits have gone to inexperienced climbers who, despite paying exorbitant fees (with guided expeditions costing upwards of $45,000), lack the necessary skills. As climbers rush to the summit during brief windows of favorable weather, the scene has been likened to a chaotic version of "Lord of the Flies," described by the New York Times as a “zoo” filled with opportunistic adventure companies.
Understanding the Risks
What factors are contributing to this chaotic and deadly environment? Luanne Freer, an emergency medical physician, founded Everest ER in 2003 to provide care for injured climbers and Sherpas on the mountain. According to her, the primary concern is the impact of altitude on the human body. The effects of thin air can be surprisingly varied and lethal.
Most humans are accustomed to life at or near sea level for good reason. Regardless of fitness levels or genetic advantages, individuals begin to experience difficulties above 8,000 feet. Common symptoms include fatigue, headaches, nausea, and dizziness. Everest Base Camp, where climbers acclimatize, is situated at 17,600 feet, and while many can tolerate this elevation for weeks or even months, reaching the summit requires an additional ascent of 12,000 feet, which poses significant dangers.
In the "death zone," defined as altitudes between 26,000 and 29,000 feet, climbers face a race against time. Freer emphasizes that any delay in descent—due to bad weather, challenging terrain, or crowded conditions—can be fatal. To illustrate, Peter Hackett, a clinical professor at the University of Colorado, explains, “You’re slowly dying above 18,000 feet, but above 26,000 feet, the decline accelerates.”
The Role of Oxygen
To survive the ascent, most climbers, including Hillary, depend on supplemental oxygen. Hackett explains that oxygen tanks can make the altitude feel less daunting, akin to being at 24,000 feet instead of 29,000. However, this relief is not a long-term solution.
As oxygen levels dwindle, cognitive functions deteriorate. Hackett notes that impaired thinking and judgment can lead to fatal errors, such as falling or failing to move when necessary. Overcrowding exacerbates this risk, with long waits on the descent increasing the likelihood of exhaustion and hypothermia.
Additionally, climbers face the threat of high-altitude cerebral edema, which causes brain swelling due to low oxygen levels. Symptoms are intensified, leaving individuals disoriented. While there are potential interventions, such as oxygen supplementation or rapid descent, the window for effective treatment is often limited in the extreme conditions of Everest.
Breathing Difficulties
Everest ER encounters a myriad of health issues, from frostbite to altitude sickness. Respiratory problems are common, notably the Khumbu cough, which can be so severe that it fractures ribs. Lung complications can be deadly, with high-altitude pulmonary edema causing fluid accumulation in the lungs.
Cardiac Risks
In addition to pulmonary complications, climbers are also at a heightened risk of sudden cardiac arrest. Many individuals may have undetected arrhythmias that remain asymptomatic at lower altitudes. However, the extreme conditions at high elevations can trigger these hidden issues. Younger climbers may succumb to arrhythmias, while older climbers are more susceptible to heart attacks due to the thickening of blood at high altitudes.
Although Nepal mandates a doctor’s note for climbers, Hackett highlights that even comprehensive cardiac stress tests may not reveal the full extent of the risks present in the death zone, especially for those who live near sea level. Genetic testing for potential heart conditions is not yet commonplace among climbers.
Ongoing Mysteries
Despite the myriad ways in which climbers can meet their demise on Everest, Hackett remains cautious about attributing the recent surge in fatalities to specific causes. As information continues to emerge, it raises more questions than it answers.
Historically, climbers who have perished due to oxygen deprivation often did so alone. In larger groups, sharing oxygen should theoretically be easier. Therefore, the overcrowding on Everest may not be the sole factor contributing to the recent deaths. Intriguingly, many fatalities have occurred during descent, a time when altitude sickness typically does not manifest. Hackett posits that the increase in climber fatalities may simply reflect a higher number of climbers tackling Everest, elevating the chances of individuals with unknown health issues.
Without autopsies, often challenging to conduct in such rugged terrain, many deaths may remain unexplained. Hackett, who summited Everest in 1981 and served as a physician for Everest ER in 2010, hopes that data collection by Everest ER personnel can shed light on these fatalities. “We’re somewhat in the dark about a lot of this,” he admits.
Although the alarming trend of deaths may prompt Nepal to reconsider its permit policies, the inherent risks associated with Everest climbing continue to draw adventurers. As Hackett aptly states, “The climbing isn’t that difficult. What Everest is really about is the physiology of altitude.”
The first video titled "All The Ways Mt. Everest Can Kill You | WIRED" explores the various dangers climbers face on Everest, detailing the risks associated with altitude and the physiological challenges that can lead to fatalities.
The second video, "Why Do So Many People Keep Dying On Mount Everest," delves into the reasons behind the increasing number of deaths on the mountain, examining the impact of overcrowding and other factors.